2 weeks Ago
The hospitality sector has been hit as hard as any since the pandemic, with many businesses going to the wall. Yet Watford’s self-proclaimed "oldest Indian restaurant", and one recommended by numerous readers, continues to flourish. The Shapla sits at the junction of three roads on the north edge of Watford: it’s on Longspring, adjacent to St Albans Road and just across from the top of Bushey Mill Lane.
It opened back in 1979 and in those days was known as the Alpana. Then, in 1990, current owner Mohammed Karim took control of the business, changed its name to the Shapla and has continually refreshed its menu and décor to enable the restaurant to move with the times and therefore grow a huge number of regular diners. Karim, as he’s known, has grown up with the business and his friendly face and soft, gracious manner sets the tone for a meal at the Shapla.
It’s a welcoming and comfortable place. He has also extended the restaurant in his 35 years of ownership, making it twice the size it was back in those old Alpana days. Brightly-lit, modern, clean and with plenty of space at each table, Shapla is far removed from the curry houses of the 1970s with their flock wallpaper, low lighting and tables packed in close together.
However, it’s the food and service that keep people coming back to the Shapla, with many friends who live in and around Watford always mentioning its name when asked where they go for a great curry. The friendly welcome when we dined was followed by a first glimpse of a very extensive menu. There really is something for everyone, from those who prefer a creamy, sweet sauce to the lovers of proper spice – and it was good to hear the staff happy to explain different dishes and also how they could adapt them to a diner’s taste.
As someone who eats a lot of curry all over the country, one good way of getting an early impression of each restaurant is what you get when you order poppadoms – and at the Shapla, it was an immediate sign that this restaurant is way above average. Six different chutneys and pickles, and plenty of each too. Not those little thimblefuls you sometimes get with a tiny spoon.
The mango chutney was particularly good, while there was a fiery tomato salsa with green chillis running through it. A sweet onion pickle went well with a little of the mint sauce too. Onto the main courses, and my wife tends to go for sort of mid-range spice, and said her Chick Saag was absolutely spot on – particularly impressive was the number and size of the pieces of chicken.
Personally, I think I’ve got to an age where my taste buds can only really enjoy the extremes, so more often than not I’m perusing the hot and very hot options. The selection was Hari Mirchi Bhuna Chicken, which was almost casserole-like in its appearance, with some chunks and other shredded pieces of meat running through a thick and well-spiced sauce. There were plenty of fresh green chilli throughout, but the dish wasn’t burning the mouth.
It was hot but it had flavour. Perfect, really. Our sides dishes were garlic potatoes, which were soft but not mushy and came with slices of dried garlic on top, and a cauliflower bhajee that was absolutely spot on.
Also, a shout out for a cheese naan as good as any I’ve had. A nice bit of crisping around the edge, soft doughiness and a lovely gooey cheesy area in the middle. The prices were very reasonable given the quality of food and generosity of portions, and the service was polite, attentive but not over-bearing and nobody tried to rush us out once we’d turned down dessert.
The Shapla was a cornerstone of Watford long before many of its current residents were born, and its success is clearly built on an owner who discovers what his customers wants, and gives it to them. It sounds simple, but then that’s really the key isn’t it? Give people what they like, rather than what you think they like. For Karim, the Shapla and the Alpana before that, has delivered nearly 50 years of success and this visit showed there is no reason why that shouldn’t continue for decades to come.
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