From thumb rings to flannel: Why lesbian fashion holds personal and political power

Lesbian fashion, much like the lesbians who wear it, is varied and unique. From three-piece suits to flannel shirts, thumb rings and Doc Martens to crystal necklaces and dungarees, clothing has long been used by lesbians to define and symbolise identity, as well as to subtly signal lesbianism to one another.Lesbian fashion writer Eleanor Medhurst – author of the 2024 book Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion – says that lesbian fashion “can let us be recognised by others in our community, or allow us to be hidden to the world at large”.

“Fashion is often thought of as being quite a frivolous thing. But it’s actually incredibly important, personally and politically,” she added. For Lesbian Visibility Week 2025, we asked our sapphic readers for their empowering lesbian fashion must-haves and the responses showcase the broad spectrum of lesbian fashion and what it means to the community.



Unsurprisingly, we got a lot of messages about carabiners, flannels, Doc Martins and thumb rings.“The multifunctionality of carabiners and to accessorise with them,” one reader said of carabiners, whilst another said they have a “red heart carabiner” which they accessorise with a “generous amount of rings and bracelets”. A metal loop with a spring-loaded clip, carabiners are often used by rock climbers so they can make quick connections between ropes as they ascend and descend.

However, they have become a key part of lesbian iconography due to their practicality and links to masculine, utilitarian workwear. Much in the way gay men would signal their sexual preferences by either wearing a bandana in their left or right back pocket, carabiners can be used by lesbians to communicate whether they are a top or bottom; left for a top, right for a bottom. Carabiners, how we love you (Unsplash)Flannels and plaid appeared in quite a few messages from our readers, with many talking about how they pair it with other clothing items and accent pieces.

Probably one of the most stereotypical lesbian clothing items, even as a young, closeted lesbian I was acutely aware of the association this style of masculine shirt had with gay women. Perhaps, much like carabiners and dungarees, this comes down to flannels simple, practical and all-round comfortable design. Slate editor June Thomas says in a video on the topic that flannel is “practical, it’s warm, it’s cheerful, it’s comfortable—like lesbians”.

“And yes, it is a sensible, durable fabric, and my people are known for their practicality,” Thomas adds. But, a more critical piece for Vice, Erin Sullivan said they could “barely believe” that believe that flannels as a marker for lesbianism “has survived all the way to 2018.”Sullivan said: “The fact that the lesbian flannel stereotype has survived this long and become as strong in the public mind as it has is disheartening.

“It’s tied with U-Haul trucks and guitar-driven female singer-songwriters as the top lesbian stereotypes. And that bond is so tight that movies, TV, and other media still constantly lean on flannel as lesbian shorthand.” “Do lesbians still wear flannel, and will we continue to until the ashy skies of nuclear war cloud our collective vision?,” Sullivan continued.

“You bet. And long may it reign! But it’s 2018. To still have this be a lesbian signifier in media is at best extremely corny, at middle lazy, and at worst offensive.

” Then there are thumb rings, described by former Vice culture editor Daisy Jones – author of All The Things She Said: Everything I Know About Modern Lesbian and Bi Culture – as a “ubiquitous queer symbol” because “it sits neither at the traditionally ‘feminine’ nor ‘masculine’ end of the spectrum”. “By wearing a thumb ring, you’re saying, ‘I like my hands to look pretty, yes, but I also know how to use them.’ Someone who wears a thumb ring can probably fix a lawnmower or construct a bed, but they’ll also read poetry and look after their plants properly.

“What could be more lesbian than that?,” I completely agree, Daisy.Thumb rings are pretty queer (Unsplash)What other fashion picks did our readers tell us about? “My big army jacket I took from a lost and found and my crystal necklace,” another reader wrote. “Converse.

Comfortable and a staple for me,” a different user said whilst another said their pick of shoe wear was “combat boots” and a third also wrote they “would die if I didn’t have my Birkenstocks”. “Dom fems, undercut, cut eyebrows, lumberjack aesthetic,” someone else said. In contrast, a different user, who describes themselves as femme, said they love “long flowy, low waisted skirts.

The funkier the pattern, the better.”“BELTS,” another person simply said.“Beaded bracelet in the lesbian flag colours.

”“Rings. Lots of them,” one user submitted, jokingly adding: “Lesbian sex basically requires a 5-minute ring removal interlude.”The post From thumb rings to flannel: Why lesbian fashion holds personal and political power appeared first on PinkNews | Latest lesbian, gay, bi and trans news | LGBTQ+ news.

.