2 weeks Ago
VIJAYAWADA: Renowned textile consultant and senior BJP leader Sadhana Bose has observed that emerging technology, Artificial Intelligence (AI) will transform the lives of handloom workers in the country. She said that usage of AI at source on handloom product will help the consumer differentiate cloth made on handloom and power loom. Addressing a national seminar on protection of artisan rights, Sadhana Bose said that the govt of India has initiated the handloom mark for handloom cloth but it is being largely misused to deceive the consumers.
“AI tagging at source of handloom products is going to be the next big thing to prevent the misuse and malpractices by the mill owners to lure the consumers. We must create awareness among the handloom weaver about usage of the emerging technologies,” said Sadhana. She said that weaving is one of the oldest crafts in history, dating back to the neolithic age.
“Way before it became a textile craft, the technique was used to weave plant fibre, twigs, leaves for home building, basketry and other utility items. The earliest example of saree weaving using the handloom goes back to the Indus Valley Civilization (2000 – 1800 BCE), where women wore unstitched cloth around their body. The term “saree”, derives from the Sanskrit word, “satika”, meaning a “piece of cloth,” said Sadhana.
She explained that India’s handloom heritage encompassing centuries old traditional craftsmanship, is a tapestry of history and cultural diversity, with each region showcasing its own unique styles and techniques. She said that India has over 136 unique weaves, ranging from the famous Kinkahb and Tanchoi of Benaras, to the intricate Bengal Jamdani, Baluchari and Muslin, the Kunbi from Goa to the Pochampally Ikat, the royal Paithani, Himroo and sophisticated Karvat Kathi of Maharashtra to the fine Maheswari ‘s and Chanderis of Madhya Pradesh to name only a few. Although, the the handloom sector has been a significant source of employment, particularly in rural India, it has been facing significant challenges for the last couple of decades, specially from the power loom sector.
While power loom is much less labour intensive and production is higher, handloom is worker intensive with low production. For instance, a true Paithani saree can take anywhere between 15 days to a few months to produce on handloom, depending on the complexity of design, whereas 5-8 such sarees can be produced on power loom in a day, said Sadhana Bose. This is helping power loom gain customers in price sensitive markets as retail store owners can get higher margin.
“This is happening in Varanasi, where mill made Benarasi sarees from Surat are being sold as handloom sarees,” she said. She said that most handloom weavers earn below minimum wages (67 % are earning less than minimum wages), hence they are not able to sustain their livelihood, leading to migration to cities to work as labour. Approximately 76% artisans do not have access to banking facilities, therefore they cannot avail of loan.
She explained that Centre has taken several initiatives, policy measures and programmes to help weavers. “RMS (RawMaterial Supply)& NHDP (National Handloom Development Programme), IHB (India Handloom Brand), TUFS (Technology upgradation Fund Scheme)&Samarth, which is the skill development fund scheme are a few of them,” said Sadhana Bose, who is a member weavers cell, Maharashtra Bharatiya Janata Party.
