There are places that don’t just greet you—they awaken you. About an hour flight away and tucked somewhere in Eastern Visayas is one of the Philippines’ best-kept secrets. A few weeks ago, Philippine Airlines invited me to join a familiarization tour around Northern Samar to introduce their newest Cebu-Catarman route, which now flies three times a week.
With the expertise and warm hospitality of the Provincial Tourism Office, our tour group was treated to a jam-packed itinerary that showcased the province’s hidden gems. And, it is in this wistful recollection of the trip that I find myself at a loss—for how can I even begin to describe the quiet magic of Northern Samar? The place did not call me loudly. It did so gently, like the whisper of a breeze brushing against my cheek and sunlight slipping through the clouds as waves brushed against rock.
It didn’t demand attention, but offered presence—the present—and it was in that place of quiet that I grew nostalgic for how the world was before it became so loud. Samar Seascapes, Lapinig and MapanasNorthern Samar is untouched—raw and real—where the moods of the sea change in its ever-blue horizon. In Lapinig’s Canawayon Island, the waters lay soft and shimmering—inviting creatures like black-tipped baby sharks and sea turtles to venture near the shorelines.
Meanwhile, engulfing the rocks of Pinusilan Blue Lagoon in Mapanas, the midnight sea roared with life—crashing against obsidian formations—as if the waves of the place, which fronts the Pacific Ocean, were sent to remind us of our own smallness. Biri Island, BiriBiri Island was ethereal; home to seven rock formations (Magasang, Magsapad, Makadlaw, Puhunan, Bel-at, Caranas, and Pinanahawan)—each carved by tempests, tides and time. A walk through the mangroves on a 770-meter footbridge toward Bel-at rock formation led the tour group to a natural pool enveloped by 15 to 20 million years of geological history.
In that island also sat Busay Hills—a lush view of evergreen hills that rolled endlessly as the sun set.The trek to Makadlaw rock formation will forever be on my bucket list. The rest of the tour group went in the still of the night—right before dawn broke—and they trekked ankle-deep in the water through a trail in the middle of a mangrove forest.
This led to Makadlaw, which stood like a majestic and forgotten god in the sea—blessed by the welcome sight of the sun’s awakening against the canvas of a sapphire horizon.TOUR GROUP. From left, Jack Ponpon, Carlo Olano, Letty Cardenas, Glyth Villamor, Aika Maximo, Tiffany Lerma, Philippine Airlines Representative Christian Singco, Hannah Abelgas, Northern Samar Provincial Tourism Officer Josette Doctor, Golda Grace, Niza Hesalta, Alberto Alega, Jonna Trongcoso, and Emily Ombrog.
CANAWAYON ISLAND. For the launch of the Cebu-Catarman route (which flies three times a week), Philippine Airlines sponsored travel agencies and Cebuano creators to explore the hidden gems of Northern Samar. The tour group was accompanied by representatives from the Northern Samar Provincial Tourism Office.
BUSAY HILLS. Watch the sun set on rolling green hills and breathe the fresh air at Busay Hills.BIRI ROCK FORMATIONS.
Marvel at the ancient rocks carved by tides and tempests—art made by time.LALAGUNA MANGROVE ECOPARK. From kayaking to trekking and snacking on the locally-made delicious bagongon crackers, Lalaguna Mangrove Ecopark offers plenty of opportunities to connect with nature.
PINUSILAN ROCK FORMATIONS AND BLUE LAGOON BRIDGE. Walk through a beautiful bridge to the lagoon with a view fronting the Pacific Ocean. CARPOOL CREW.
From left, Carlo Olano (Kalami Cebu), Hannah Abelgas (Sugbo.ph), Jack Ponpon (JAK73) and Tiffany Lerma (Little Local) pose on top of the viewpoint of Busay Hills.PINUSILAN BLUE LAGOON.
Take a dip in a midnight blue lagoon—the calm in the middle of a tumultuous sea. Lalaguna Mangrove Eco Park, LavezaresLalaguna Mangrove Eco Park offered a different kind of charm. Nestled in an island barangay in the middle of the sea was a sprawling 300-hectare sanctuary for wildlife that reminded the group of how deeply ecosystems are tethered together.
In it was a sense of interconnectedness that made us feel like such small speckles of dust—minuscule in the bigger picture.There was so much more I could describe—pages upon pages of moments that moved me. Experiences like these remind us that the world is big and still full of wonder.
Northern Samar doesn’t offer a filtered and glossy version of itself. It offers something better: a real connection—to nature, to culture, to a version of the world where stillness speaks and, a version of yourself that listens to its quiet celebration. How to get to Biri Island (From Cebu)1.
Take a flight to Catarman - Philippine Airlines now flies Cebu to Catarman three times a week.2. Ride to Lavezares Port, which should take about 45 minutes via land.
3. Sit through a pleasant hour-long boat ride from Lavezares to Biri.Biri Essentials1.
Aqua Shoes - This is especially helpful for the Makadlaw trek.2. Sunblock - Ride to Lavezares Port, which should take about 45 minutes via land.
3. Cash - Cash is king because most establishments will not accept credit cards.Lalaguna Mangrove Eco Park, LavezaresLalaguna Mangrove Eco Park offered a different kind of charm.
Nestled in an island barangay in the middle of the sea was a sprawling 300-hectare sanctuary for wildlife that reminded the group of how deeply ecosystems are tethered together. In it was a sense of interconnectedness that made us feel like such small speckles of dust—minuscule in the bigger picture.There was so much more I could describe—pages upon pages of moments that moved me.
Experiences like these remind us that the world is big and still full of wonder.Northern Samar doesn’t offer a filtered and glossy version of itself. It offers something better: a real connection—to nature, to culture, to a version of the world where stillness speaks and, a version of yourself that listens to its quiet celebration.
Other Tips: 1. Accomodations: Ahmara’s Travelers Inn is right across two Biri rock formations.2.
Transportation: The mode of transportation in Biri Island is via motorcycle.3. Tour Guide: Get a certified tour guide—they know the island well and take the best pictures of you.
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