13 hours Ago
If you have been in the skincare game for a while, chances are that you may have stumbled across products labelled as AHA, BHA, PHA, and if it tangled your mind like your school's chemistry quiz, it's normal to get confused, and you are not alone. They may seem like codes, making you scratch your head figuring out how to tell them apart and if your skin requires them. But we have got you covered by simplifying it by breaking it down to the very basics.
ALSO READ: Dos and don'ts of exfoliation: Dermatologist-approved tips for glowing skin In an interview with Ht Lifestyle, Dr Chandni Jain Gupta, MBBS, MD, Dermatologist and Aesthetic physician at Elantis Healthcare in New Delhi, shared a detailed guide with us, covering all the essentials from skin type match to skincare routine , including these. She explained, “AHA, BHA, and PHA are chemical exfoliants. They are types of acids used in skincare to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote a brighter complexion.
” Furthermore, she shared a comprehensive guide on each of the chemical exfoliants and who they're best suited for: Different chemical exfoliants 1. AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) Source: Derived from fruits, milk, and sugar. Solubility: Water-soluble, so they work on the skin's surface.
Best for: Dry, dull, or sun-damaged skin. Common types: Glycolic acid (from sugarcane): Most potent, penetrates deeply. Lactic acid (from milk): Gentler, also hydrating.
Mandelic acid (from almonds): Mild, good for sensitive skin. Benefits: Smooths rough texture. Fades pigmentation.
Improves hydration by increasing natural moisturising factors. Precautions: Increases sun sensitivity, so always use sunscreen. 2.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) Solubility: Oil-soluble, so they penetrate into pores. Best for: Oily, acne-prone, or clogged skin. Most common type: Salicylic acid.
Benefits: Unclogs pores and reduces blackheads and whiteheads. Has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Helps control excess sebum (oil).
Precautions: Can be drying, start slowly and moisturise. 3. PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids) Next-generation AHAS with a larger molecular structure.
Solubility: Water-soluble, but gentler and slower to penetrate. Best for: Sensitive skin, rosacea, or those new to exfoliants. Common types: Gluconolactone Lactobionic acid Benefits: Gently exfoliates without irritation.
Provides hydration and antioxidant protection. Strengthens the skin barrier. Precautions: Least likely to irritate, but still start gradually.
How to know if you need chemical or physical exfoliant? Dr Chandni Jain clarified and said, “Using chemical exfoliants (AHA, BHA, PHA) instead of physical exfoliants (like scrubs with beads or granules) is often recommended because they tend to be more effective, safer, and gentler in the long run.” So, in other words, physical exfoliants contain textured and gritty particles which physically scrub away the dead skin cells, while chemical exfoliants use acids like AHA, BHA, and PHA to gently dissolve dead skin cells. Here are the reasons she shared for using chemical exfoliants instead of physical ones: 1.
Gentler on the skin barrier Physical exfoliants can create micro-tears in the skin, especially if they use rough particles like walnut shells or apricot pits. Chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, without manual abrasion. 2.
More even and controlled exfoliation Chemical exfoliants exfoliate uniformly. Physical exfoliation can be uneven depending on pressure and technique. 3.
Better for sensitive skin Chemical options like PHA or low concentrations of AHA/BHA are safer for rosacea, acne, or hyperpigmentation. Physical scrubs can inflame or worsen these conditions. 4.
Targets specific concerns BHA penetrates pores to treat acne and blackheads, while AHA fades dark spots and smooths fine lines. Physical exfoliants can't reach pores or stimulate cellular turnover as effectively. 5.
Supports skin enewal Chemical exfoliants can stimulate collagen production and help with long-term skin texture and tone. When to use chemical exfoliants? If you are confused as to whether should you use physical exfoliants like scrubs or chemical exfoliants like AHA, BHA; here are the skin conditions Dr Chandni share that can help you identify when you should use chemical exfoliants: Acne, uneven texture, dullness, or pigmentation. Sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea or eczema.
You are on retinoids or other actives that already thin the skin slightly. You want consistent, long-term results with less chance of irritation. When should you use physical exfoliants? Here are the skin conditions Dr Chandni shared, which make it safe for you to use physical exfoliants: You have non-sensitive, resilient skin.
You are using a very gentle scrub ( for example, with soft jojoba beads.) You want to exfoliate your body's skin (for example, elbows, knees, or heels). Matching chemical exfoliant to your skin type Dr Chandni shared this guide for using chemical exfoliant, based on your skin type for best results: 1.
Dry or dehydrated skin Best: AHA (especially Lactic Acid or Mandelic Acid.) AHAS exfoliate the surface of dead cells and boost hydration. Lactic acid is moisturising and gentle.
Mandelic acid is even milder and good for sensitive, dry skin. Benefits : Smoother texture, increased moisture, brighter tone. 2.
Oily or acne-Prone skin Best : BHA (Salicylic Acid) Oil-soluble: penetrates pores, dissolves sebum and dead skin. It is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. Benefits: Clears blackheads, reduces breakouts, and controls oil.
3. Combination skin Best: AHA + BHA Combo AHAs exfoliate dry, flaky areas. BHA works in oily zones (T-zone).
Many products now combine both (e.g., glycolic + salicylic acid).
Benefits: Balanced exfoliation for mixed skin types. 4. Sensitive or reactive Skin Best: PHA (e.
g., Gluconolactone or Lactobionic Acid) Larger molecules mean slower, gentler penetration. Hydrating and antioxidant-rich.
Suitable for skin with rosacea or eczema. Benefits: Smooths without irritation, supports barrier repair. 5.
Mature or dull skin Best: Glycolic Acid (AHA) It has the smallest molecule and deep penetration. Stimulates collagen production. Brightens and smooths fine lines.
Benefits: Radiance boost, even tone, firmer skin over time. Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.
.
