How the Met Gala's dandy theme gave women an excuse to beat men at their own game

How the Met Gala's dandy theme gave women an excuse to beat men at their own game Have YOU got a story? Email [email protected] By LAURA CRAIK Published: 20:00 EDT, 6 May 2025 | Updated: 20:01 EDT, 6 May 2025 e-mail View comments New York’s annual Met Gala is as well-known for its complicated themes as its glittering red carpet. Forget ‘black tie’ last year’s dress code was The Garden Of Time, and saw many flora, fauna and timepiece-themed atrocities committed in the name of fashion.

In 2018, Fashion And The Catholic Imagination saw Rihanna come dressed as the Pope, while 2019’s Camp theme saw Jared Leto arrive clutching a waxwork head of his own likeness. While previous themes have risked offending countries ( China ), designers ( Karl Lagerfeld ) and youth movements (punk), this year’s dress code was arguably the most fraught of all. For a bunch of rich white people – the majority of guests – Superfine: Tailoring Black Style had the potential to be something of a minefield.



Everybody wanted to pay homage to the important and chronically overlooked legacy of black style. Nobody wanted to be accused of cultural appropriation. While previous themes have risked offending countries (China), designers (Karl Lagerfeld) and youth movements (punk), this year’s dress code was arguably the most fraught of all (Madonna pictured) For a bunch of rich white people – the majority of guests – Superfine: Tailoring Black Style had the potential to be something of a minefield (Sabrina Carpenter pictured) As always, the dress code reflected the theme of the Metropolitan Museum’s summer exhibition, which this year was billed as ‘a cultural and historical examination of black style over 300 years through the concept of dandyism’ (Janelle Monae pictured) As always, the dress code reflected the theme of the Metropolitan Museum’s summer exhibition, which this year was billed as ‘a cultural and historical examination of black style over 300 years through the concept of dandyism’.

Given the topic was menswear, you’d assume that the night’s theme would be most successfully interpreted by the men. In fact, it was the women who shone. Leading the way was Zendaya, in an immaculate three-piece trouser suit by Louis Vuitton, designed by its creative director of menswear (and Met Gala co-chair) Pharrell Williams.

While its flared trousers and dapper waistcoat paid homage to the zoot suit that was a staple of black dandyism, it also recalled the white Yves Saint Laurent skirt suit worn by Bianca Jagger on the day of her 1971 wedding to Mick. Bianca, who is of mixed Nicaraguan and British descent, adopted the white trouser suit as something of a signature, and it’s a look that women still copy to this day. As any woman who has ever had to wear one for work will attest, suits don’t always sit well on the female body.

Trousers aren’t always designed with hips and stomachs in mind, while too many jackets are cut to suggest that breasts are an inconvenience. When your suit is custom-made, however, none of these issues apply. Other female guests in beautifully tailored trouser suits included the actress Lupita Nyong’o in powder blue, double-breasted Chanel and British actress Jodie Turner-Smith in burgundy brocade and leather by Burberry.

Given the topic was menswear, you’d assume that the night’s theme would be most successfully interpreted by the men. In fact, it was the women who shone (pictured left Stormzy, right Andrew Scott) Leading the way was Zendaya, in an immaculate three-piece trouser suit by Louis Vuitton, designed by its creative director of menswear (and Met Gala co-chair) Pharrell Williams While its flared trousers and dapper waistcoat paid homage to the zoot suit that was a staple of black dandyism, it also recalled the white Yves Saint Laurent skirt suit worn by Bianca Jagger on the day of her 1971 wedding to Mick Other female guests in beautifully tailored trouser suits included the actress Lupita Nyong’o (L) in powder blue, double-breasted Chanel and British actress Jodie Turner-Smith (R) in burgundy brocade and leather by Burberry Then there was Madonna, who arrived puffing on a cigar, dressed in a silver trouser suit by Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford Then there was Madonna, who arrived puffing on a cigar, dressed in a silver trouser suit by Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford. Skirt suits were also a popular choice, with model Kendall Jenner choosing a simple grey floor-length iteration by emerging designer Torisheju Dumi, inspired by 1920s Harlem Renaissance style.

Those who remember her ‘pizza dress’ from 2015 will know that Rihanna never fails to make an impact on the red carpet. Ten years on, she went viral not for her yellow train but for her baby bump, revealing her third pregnancy in a cropped black jacket, grey corset and deconstructed pinstripe skirt suit by Marc Jacobs. One of the cleverest looks of the evening, it tied for first place with the ‘optical illusion’ suit worn by actress and singer Janelle Monae.

Designed by Thom Browne and Broadway costume designer Paul Tazewell, its exaggerated shoulders and graphic black, white and red geometric print paid thoughtful homage to the dress code. All high-profile events have their no-shows, and the Met Gala’s included a host of famous names who had been barred owing to a Petri dish of toxic feuds and prior commitments. Naomi Campbell didn’t attend after a rumoured fall-out with co-chair Anna Wintour – though she posted a polite note on Instagram apologising for her absence and emphasising that she had, in fact, been invited.

Skirt suits were also a popular choice, with model Kendall Jenner choosing a simple grey floor-length iteration by designer Torisheju Dumi, inspired by 1920s Harlem Renaissance style One of the cleverest looks of the evening, it tied for first place with the ‘optical illusion’ suit worn by actress and singer Janelle Monae Rihanna revealed her third pregnancy in a cropped black jacket, grey corset and deconstructed pinstripe skirt suit by Marc Jacobs Model Hailey Bieber (without husband Justin) looked elegant in a classic black Saint Laurent tuxedo jacket worn with sheer tights and high heels Also trouserless, the singer Doja Cat embraced a feline theme, in a Marc Jacobs crystal pinstripe bodysuit with a power-shouldered wool jacket featuring leopard print panelling Blake Lively was absent amid her ongoing legal battles with Justin Baldoni; Taylor Swift skipped the occasion; and Beyonce was busy with her Cowboy Carter tour. Although the biggest no-show of all was arguably the trousers. Was there an international shortage of zippers? Did the seamstresses run out of time? No, the trouser-less guests were simply adhering to the catwalk trend for wearing knickers, bodysuits and corsets.

Model Hailey Bieber (without husband Justin) looked elegant in a classic black Saint Laurent tuxedo jacket worn with sheer tights and high heels. As did White Lotus star Lalisa Manobal (rapper Lisa), in an embellished lace Louis Vuitton jacket embroidered with a likeness of the activist Rosa Parks. Parks became a face of the US civil rights movement in 1955 when she refused to give up her seat on the bus for a white passenger.

Also trouserless, the singer Doja Cat embraced a feline theme, in a Marc Jacobs crystal pinstripe bodysuit with a power-shouldered wool jacket featuring leopard print panelling. Pop star Sabrina Carpenter, meanwhile, stayed true to her stage look in bare legs, a burgundy corset and a matching Louis Vuitton tail coat. In an interview with Vogue, the diminutive singer revealed that she had been forbidden to wear trousers by Vuitton’s creative director Pharrell Williams, who apparently told her: ‘You’re quite short – no pants for you!’ Pop star Sabrina Carpenter, meanwhile, stayed true to her stage look in bare legs, a burgundy corset and a matching Louis Vuitton tail coat Some female guests decided that ‘dress is best’, eschewing suits for more traditional red carpet gowns (Demi Moore pictured) The best of these still managed to nod to the night’s theme, such as Demi Moore’s black and white pinstripe gown, by Thom Browne, which was designed to mimic a tie, right down to the ‘tie loop’ feature hovering over her head One wonders what reason he gave his designer wife Helen Lasichanh for her trouser-less leather look: at 5 ft 11 in, it’s fair to say she’s not too short for them.

Some female guests decided that ‘dress is best’, eschewing suits for more traditional red carpet gowns. The best of these still managed to nod to the night’s theme, such as Demi Moore’s black and white pinstripe gown, by Thom Browne, which was designed to mimic a tie, right down to the ‘tie loop’ feature hovering over her head. While those with little interest in fashion might dismiss this year’s event as ‘frumpy’ and ‘boring’, most style-watchers would agree that the theme was interpreted with imagination and verve.

Whether through their Josephine Baker-era kiss curls, alligator brooches, pocket squares, fedoras or pinstripe suits, most guests understood the assignment and completed it with due care and attention. It was an evening that celebrated diversity against the backdrop of an administration that wants to curb it. That it also raised a record-breaking $31 million (£23 million)? Well, that’s just dandy.

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